(2015)Excavated Gold Woven Silk in Ancient Korea(Late Goryeo Dynasty)
Date: 2022-11-18

Excavating ancient silk artifacts is extremely hard to come by in Korea due to the unfit environmental conditions for textile to be preserved and even remaining artifacts are just small fragments. However, starting from the late Goryeo Dynasty (circa 14th century), a large amount of silk had been discovered. Goryeo dynasty lasted for almost 500 years from 918 A.D. to 1392 A.D. During the same period in the Chinese continent, there were neighboring countries such as Liao, Northern Song, Southern SongMongolJin, and Yuan dynasties. The golden woven textiles are usually found in late Goryeo Dynasty. Mostly inside of the statue of the Buddha. Fabrics in the Buddhist statue were found in an excellent preserved condition as well as the colors were visibly remained. The kinds of fabrics varied such as from tabby, twill, twill damask, satin, gauze, brocade, Lampas, Weft faced compound weave and to weave with supplementary weft. 

 

Among these fabrics, the most prominent one during this period was 'gold woven silk'. Gold woven silk is considered as a highly decorative silk as it used gold thread in pattern weft. A patterned textile woven with golden thread is called jik-geum(织金)in Korea. Numerous historical records about jik-geum in the Goryeo and Joseon period, still remain. Jik-geum is named geum-seon(金线)or ran(栏). The trend and fame of gold woven silk fabric are presumably from the influence of Jin (金), Yuan (元) Dynasty.

 

The following research is to examine the characteristics of gold thread, weave structure, and pattern characteristics by investigating and analyzing gold woven silk from the Goryeo Dynasty and compare them to the Chinese artifacts from the same period.