The collection of the Volgograd Regional Museum of Local History tallies roughly 30 examples of the Golden Horde textiles. The textile material is in the different states of preservation. In this presentation, I will focus on the most interesting examples of clothing, the cut reconstruction of which is believed to be reliable.
The Volgograd Local History Museum collection reposited a fragmented robe from a male burial 1 near the Tormosin farmstead which was found in 1983 during an excavation under the guidance of Professor V.M. Klepikov. The lower part of the robe and both sleeves are preserved.
An object is a typical robe with overlapped front, shift waist and pleats in the side seams. Previous attempts to recreate a cut seem to be poorly founded. The first reconstruction of the cut made by Professor V.M. Klepikov was represented in the archaeological report and it had several defects related to the lack of a reliable source base. T.V. Sidorova published a variant of the reconstruction of this robe with an axial cut. Later M.V. Gorelik published a version with the uncut front. These reconstructions are questionable because they did not consider such details as traces of ribbon stays sewn down to the right side and details of the upper flap. The robe was composed of three types of silk fabric: silk with large floral pattern, a more delicate fabric of plain weave with woven stripes and a tabby silk. The delicate silk was placed on the skirt at the back of the robe and on the skirt of the right flap (which is overlapped).

Well-preserved sleeves allow to estimate the width of the weaving piece, which has 57.6 cm. The cuff of the sleeve is false and formed with a shallow pleated fold, sewn along its depth.
Turndown sleeves made like the sleeves of the robe from China National Silk Museum at Hangzhou and the robe from Mayachny hill in the Astrakhan region. On the Tormosin robe there are no preserved buttons or other fastening elements (ties) which could fix the sleeves in the turndown state, but the presence of such elements is unmistakable,
since the hinges made of thin tabby fabric have been preserved on the sleeves of the robe.
The main stitch of the robe is a back stitch, the non-preserved lining was fixed with a running stitch. Along the entire perimeter of the robe, about 15 cm from the edge there was a seam made with a thick red thread to fix the lining and prevent the sagging.
Based on the above-mentioned facts the following version of the robe cutting is possible.
Also, in t he b urial p reserved s ome f ragments o f b oot covers. Similar o bjects a refound both in the territory of the Russian Federation and in China. The trimming of the boots is decorated with a pair of parallel rows of a complex blanket stitch.
During the archaeological excavations lead by Prof. V.M. Klepikov, in the unique male burial near the Dmitrievka village were found some fragments of a robe, which could with the highest degree of credibility be interpreted as the «bian xian pao» robe, robe with silk braiding decoration, and the details of an object which could be fragments of trousers.
Those fragments are: a part of a collar, a fragment of a skirt near the waist line, and a fragment of braiding used for waist decoration.
On the skirt, there are small pleats 3.5 mm deep, fixed by two parallel rows of the backstitch.
Based on the preserved fragments, similar survived robes and depictions, I adopted the following scheme of the robe cut. The minor traces of gold have been preserved on the fabric of the robe, but there are no punctures and it is possible to assume that the fabric was decorated with a golden printing.
The two remaining fragments of patterned silk with shallow pleats near the sewn belt and a fragment of a belt loop made of plain weave fabric are trousers. The closest analogues are the pants from the China National Silk Museum at Hangzhou and the children's pants from the burial by the Okoshki hill.
The next type of men's robe is not so famous. A similar type of robe is in the Gezidong cave, Longhua, Hebei and in the Inner Mongolia Museum, Hohhot. The object from our museum was found by Prof. V.I. Mamontov in burial ground
Vertyachiy in 1979. A part of the left side of the robe with small pleats on the cutting line of the waist on the panel front and an undissolved back, a false cuff has been preserved.

There are some fragments of the upper chest and back with the cloud collar. The wide strip of floral design on the skirt of the robe is a remarkable detail. Fragmentary nature of an archaeological material does not allow to determine the
length of the sleeve. In the graphic sources robes with a similar decoration are found with both long and short sleeves. But the presence of a false cuff suggests a variant with the long sleeve.
According to this I propose the following reconstruction of the cut. Also, in the museum collection there are finds of several women's robes. In Russian scientific practice this type of robes is usually called "the big robes".
The first one is the robe from barrow cemetery Tsarev, which was found during the excavations lead by Prof. E.P. Myskov in 1989. Today the most part of back and the upper part of left flap, the collar decoration and cuffs of the robe are preserved.
Prof. E.P. Myskov suggested an existence of the sleeveless robe. But careful study of fragments allowed to determine the presence of sleeves. The main fabric of the robe is the golden squares on the woven bands. The fabric of the collar decoration and cuff has the floral motif. The width of the fabric is 55cm.

The last one women’s robe examined at the moment is another "big robe” from Zhutovo burial mound, which was excavated by the expedition of Professor V.I. Mamontov in 1965. I cleaned and washed up this textile and strengthened it. As a result of the cleaning, a seam fragment was found in the area of the armpit, and it became possible to classify the largest fragment as the upper part of the front right flap. The cloth of the robe has the rib weave and its color now is dark red-brown.
The most interesting object in this burial is a woven band with a geometric pattern, perhaps it is a part of a combined collar or cuff. The band of the basic fabric is fixed to it, in some cases in female robes the strip of the main fabric is the middle stripe of the combined collar.
The unique object in our collection is the decoration of boots from the burial mound Bakhtiyarovka-III, burial 123, which was found during excavation led by V.A. Krieger. The finishing of the boots is made of nasij fabric, along the edges it is decorated with tabby silk and four rows of twin cords, like in «bian xian pao» robes. Cords were made of 3 threads with loose twist and laid in the direction SZ-SZ ZS-ZS I described the most interesting examples from the collection of the Volgograd Regional Museum of Local History. All these objects are typical both for representatives of the Mongolian empire, and specifically for Ulus Juchi. Looking forward, I suppose to work both on these examples of the Golden Horde costume, and fragments of textiles in worse state of preservation. A comprehensive study of textiles is planned in cooperation with the largest laboratories and costume experts deal with this region and period.